Samsung has produced a wide range of washing machines. Even though their error codes are nearly identical, the error indications are vastly different.
Their products are recognized for their excellent quality and longevity, but they may occasionally break down and stop operating, leaving you with error codes that explain what’s wrong.
If you are familiar with all of the error codes for your washer, you may save a lot of time if a code appears on the screen or something goes wrong.
We’ll try to add trouble codes from both old and new models in this section. If no one else is available to address the problem, you may fix it yourself.
Error codes 1E, 1C, E7
Meaning: There is no communication from the water level to the controller.
Solution: What causes the issue, and what are the typical steps taken when the malfunctioning sensor alert appears? First, verify that the circuit between the part and the computer is functional; ensure that all connections are secure and free of oxidation. After that, inspect the actual sensor. If it has been damaged, it must be replaced. Conduct a last check of the controller to complete the troubleshooting. You’d be wise to seek professional assistance with its diagnosis and repair.
Error codes 3E (1,2,3,4), EA, EB
Meaning: Motor Defect: The machine’s computer is not receiving any information from the drive motor’s tachometer.
Solution:
- Due to the enormous load, the motor gets overworked.
- The circuit holding the tacho generator indicator is loose or has weaker connections.
- The indicator has jerked out from its sitting because the washer that secures the coil has come undone.
- The tacho generator is not working correctly and needs to be repaired or replaced.
- Additionally, the motor could be faulty. It requires evaluation and repair or replacement.
- There are issues at the opposite end of the tachometer transmission line: the controller malfunctions
Error codes E1, E4
Meaning: There was an issue with the water collection. The appliance is unaware that it is filling up with water.
Solution:
- Ensure that the water collection is on and sufficient water collection (min:0.5bar, max: 8bar).
- Make sure the water connections are not linked. Examine the inlet filters within the water valve’s terminus.
- If the water collection is fine, don’t hesitate to contact the customer service staff.
Error codes E2, 5E, 5c
Meaning: The system is not draining, or there is a water drainage problem. The water in the tub has not dropped significantly to a specified level within the prescribed period, and the water in the appliance is not draining.
Solution:
- Something prevents the water from flowing into the washer: a clog in the drain hose or a defect in the drain hose. You can solve all of these things on your own.
- The wiring is broken, or the contacts have been disconnected. Meaning the parts of the circuits that connect the controller to the pump or the pressure switch. There may be an issue with the power circuit for the pump motor.
- The drain pump or its propeller has broken down. If it doesn’t work, you have to call a professional to check and replace the coil or the whole motor if it doesn’t work.
- The water level circuit doesn’t work. It needs to be looked at and then replaced.
- The controller is broken. If the board isn’t working, a professional will have to figure out what’s wrong and replace it.
- In this case, the washing machine is in a cold place, and the tub of water froze.
- The washer isn’t getting any water. Why? The water tap is off, the water pressure is low, the hose is broken or blocked, the inlet valve is clogged, and others. All of these issues are simple to resolve on your own.
- The electronics are managing the start of the washing process since you failed to close the door firmly.
- The inlet valve is malfunctioning. You’ll have to get a new one.
- The water level sensor isn’t working correctly. It needs diagnosis and replacement.
- The connections of the circuits holding the controller and the inlet or the water level control are open.
- The controller isn’t working correctly. If the board is defective, it must be diagnosed and replaced by a specialist.
Error code 6E
Meaning: There is a problem with the water heater.
Solution: The heater resistance is incorrectly set. The resistance of the heater should be in the typical range on average, which should be approximately 27 ohms.
Error code 6F
Meaning: It is hard to detect.
Solution: If you obtain this code, contact a professional to diagnose your washing machine. While it may appear on your washing machine, this code is not among the manufacturer’s codes for a specific issue.
Error codes 8E, 8E1, 8C, 8C1
Meaning: The VRT+ motion sensor is not functioning correctly.
Solution:
- The sensor is standard on models manufactured after 2013; it is an analog of the Hall sensor.
- The sensor and controller are connected in an open circuit. It involves repair of the wiring and re-tightening of the connectors.
- The sensor is defective. It needs evaluation, repair, or replacement.
- The control board is defective. Then get in touch with the service center
Error codes 9E(1,2), PH1, Plo
Meaning: Power is not functioning, is insufficiently powered, or is fluctuating.
Solutions: With a multimeter, check for consistency at the wall socket faceplate, the machine’s wiring screws, and any cable connection to the board. Check to see whether the fuse hasn’t blown.
Error codes AE, 13E
Meaning: Printed Circuit Boards and sub Printed Circuit Plates are not adequately communicating.
Solution: You may need to reset the cycle to troubleshoot this problem on your washer.
- Turn off the washing machine and wait at least 30 seconds before turning it back on. Turn on the washer and begin a new program to clear the system.
- Examine the PCB and its sub-PCBs for loose, damaged, or disconnected connections.
Error code bE
Meaning: The motor TRIAC has experienced a short circuit.
Solution: Turn off the washing machine and wait at least 30 seconds before turning it back on. Turn on the washing machine again and start a new program. If the problem code continues, a new PCB must be purchased and installed.
Error codes bE1, 12E, bE (2,3), bE, bC, bC2, b2, Eb
Meaning: The washing machine will not start, or there are issues with the drive motor’s triode for alternating current.
Solution: The collection of problem codes appears to be a little strange: the washer may not start for some reason. Because the motor may not rotate the drum due to a triac problem, you must inspect its circuit, the actual sensor, and the control system. Other possible causes include a defective tacho generator sensor or internal motor problems.
Error codes B2, 14E
Meaning: Any button except the power switch is not working correctly.
Solution: Excluding the power button, press any button for 30 seconds, then release.
Error codes bE3, 18E
Meaning: This is a more technical issue in the Samsung washing machine. Switch fault results in a delay in motherboard processing.
Solution: Using a multimeter, locate and test the switches on the main motherboard and other significant components for connection. Determine which one is damaged and fix or reconnect it.
Error codes CE, E8
Meaning: There’s a cooling problem leading the water to remain excessively hot.
Solution:
- Check if the hot water collection is on. After 30 minutes, the water temperature in the machine should be lower than 55 degrees Celsius. If not, remove the hot water.
- Inspect to ensure that the cold and hot water hoses are connected to the proper inlets on the machine.
- If the water intake and hoses appear to be adjusted appropriately, open the back panel of your washer and locate the temperature sensor.
- Check the temperature sensor wire connections for continuity with a multimeter.
- If any of them shows an infinite reading, replace the sensor.
Error codes dE, dE1, Ed
Meaning: The washing machine won’t start because the doorway is damaged, won’t close fully, or has a damaged door control.
Solution: There are a few things you may take to resolve specific Samsung washing machine error codes:
- Check the door if it’s properly closed and locked tight.
- Examine the door’s perimeter to ensure all sides are even.
- Finally, inspect the door hinge control for any breakage and the door hinge switch wire for continuity using a voltmeter; repair or replace it.
Error code dE2
Meaning: The on or off switch is not functioning correctly.
Solution: If the on or off switch is repeatedly pressed, the coil on the controller will overheat. Limit the number of times the button is pressed.
Wait for the coil to cool, reset the cycle, switch on the washer, and resume the process.
Error codes FE, FC
Meaning: The fan is not functioning correctly.
Solution: The following are some of the probable causes:
- The fan is broken. It must be repaired or replaced.
- The fan sensors and controller are connected to an open circuit. It necessitates the repair of wiring and the tightening of connections.
- The fan sensors aren’t working accurately. A diagnostic, repair or replacement is required.
- The control board isn’t functioning correctly. Then get in touch with the service center.
Error codes H1, HE
Meaning: The water in the drum had reached a temperature of above 100° C.
Solution: Find the water temperature detector and double-check the connections and cabling for consistency. Unplug from the sensor and install a new sensor if any connectors or cables show infinity on a multimeter.
Error codes HE1, E5
Meaning: The temperature of the water is not at least 50° Celsius.
Solution: Check the resistance of the heater. The resistance of the heater should be approximately 27.
Error code HE2
Meaning: In the dryer components, there is a heater fault.
Solution:
- Examine the heater TCOs. Any of it should be reset.
- Check the operation of the fan.
- Using a multimeter, check the function of the water condenser for consistency or physical obstructions.
Error code HE3
Meaning: The steam process is broken.
Solution: Using a multimeter, examine the function of the steam condenser for persistence or TCOs.
Error codes LE, LE1, E9, 11E
Meaning: Water is seeping from the unit’s bottom.
Solution: This error code is related to the position of the drain hose. The drain pipe should not be below the washing machine’s bottom.
Adjust the drain hose to be higher than the bottom of your washing machine.
Error codes SUD, OE, OF, E3
Meaning: The soap or overflowing water.
Solution: This error code is caused by excessive soap in the load. Begin by shutting off for 30 seconds and then re-starting the drain pump.
Check for obstacles in the pressure system and ensure that no inlet water valves are switched on.
Error codes tE, tE(1,2,3), tC, tC(1,2,3,4), Ec
Meaning: The temperature sensor does not provide a signal to the controller (thermostat).
Solution: The following are plausible causes:
- First, verify that the wire connecting the temperature sensor or heating element to the controller operates correctly. Ascertain that all connections and connectors are firmly attached.
- No information from the sensor may imply that it is not functioning correctly. It would help if you replaced the defective sensor.
- The heating element’s relay became “stuck.” Additionally, it needs replacing.
- The lock assembly’s controller is defective. It requires an expert diagnosis and controller replacement.
Error code UC
Meaning: There’s an unusual Power Supply Voltage (voltage fluctuates beyond the 176-286vAC range).
Solution: Verify that the voltage in the power outlet is correct. If the power connection is in good working order, the main PCB may need replacing
Error codes UE, E4
Meaning: The weight of the load is imbalanced.
Solution: Reduce the weight to distribute the clothes throughout the washer drum evenly. Restart the cycle to determine whether the problem still exists. You may have to remove some damp garments.
Error codes Uc, 9C, 9E(1,2)
Meaning: The main power voltage level does not fulfill the washer model’s standards.
Solution: Make an appointment with an electrician to inspect and fix the wiring. If it doesn’t work, the machine is broken, and you’ll have to call the service center again.
Error code ddC
Meaning: Even though the pause button was not hit, the door opened. (It’s the door through which you may load some clothing throughout the washing cycle).
Solution: Close the door and push the Start or Pause button to begin washing.
Error codes PoF, PF
Meaning: During the washing cycle, the power is turned off.
Solution: Connect the cable and push the Start/Pause button to restart the cycle.
Error codes ‘CE, AC, ACb, AC6, 4C2
Meaning: Water is entering the tub at an excessively high temperature.
Solution:
- The washer starts draining right away and shows the fault code.
- The filling hose is attached to the hot water collection incorrectly.
- The thermostat is broken or has an open control circuit.
- The heating coils are damaged, or there’s been a short circuit.
- The controller isn’t working
Error codes 6C, SdC, 5dC
Meaning: The automated dispenser isn’t functioning correctly.
Solution: These apply to models with Wi-Fi connectivity:
- A problem exists with the dispenser actuator valve or its sensor. Troubleshooting, valve repair, and sensor repair are all required.
- The sensor is connected to an open circuit. The wiring should be repaired, tightened, and clean.
- Electronic failure is always a possibility.
Error codes Ao, A9, B0, C0, D0, E0
Meaning: That is not an error; the system is just letting you know that the machine is in testing mode.
Solution: See your washer’s instructions about how to terminate the test mode.
Error code Hot
Meaning: The temperature is moderate during the drying phase (over 70 degrees).
Solution: It is not a failure but rather a basic informative message if something goes wrong. It will go as the temperature drops.
Error code EE
Meaning: The drying temperature is scorching.
Solution:
- Inspect the drying temperature gauge and its circuit first. Replace the defective sensor and repair the wiring.
- The heater and its controller are in the same boat.
- Finally, inspect the controller, although this is a job for a professional.
Error codes 5D, Sd
Meaning: During the washing cycle, there are a lot of suds.
Solution: The following are the reasons behind the unusual foaming:
- If you’ve used improper washing powder, such as one that isn’t designed for automated washing machines, consider switching detergents.
- If you’ve used more detergent than you need for one washing cycle, consider lowering the amount the next time you attempt the cycle.
- The water drain is in bad shape. See the 5E error description.
- The pressure button is either broken or has an open circuit. It would be best to use a multimeter to examine the course and replace the switch.
- If a foam level sensor is available, the same applies.
- The controller isn’t working correctly. Make a call to a handyman.
Error code UB
Meaning: The location of the drums is incorrect, and there is no proportion.
Solution: The following are some of the probable causes:
- It’s possible that the load is severe or, on the other hand, insufficient.
- It’s conceivable that you incorrectly stacked the clothing in the tub, resulting in an unbalanced load.
- The washer horizontally isn’t positioned. Check it with a level gauge.
- The washer’s electric motor’s drive belt has been damaged and must be replaced.
- The washer’s wiring is defective. You must use a multimeter to inspect the circuit, repair any damaged areas, and inspect and tighten the connections.
- The sensor that detects the position of the drum is broken. The sensor must be diagnosed and replaced.
- The tacho generator or Hall detector is the same way.
- The electric motor has a problem: either the brushes have burned out, or the bearing has stuck. You must contact a professional.
- The control module isn’t working correctly. Make a call to the handyman to have a look at it.
Error codes DE2, DC, DC(1,2)
Meaning: The controller receives no information that the door is locked or will not open.
Solution: As a result, the circuits are in charge of the cycle’s commencement. The pursuing are some of the possible causes:
- The first and most apparent step is to shut the door securely.
- Then double-check that nothing is blocking you from shutting the door. If the issue persists, something has gone wrong.
- The link between the locking assembly’s control triac and the controller is broken. It would be most beneficial to utilize a multimeter to verify the circuit and the connections.
- Something is wrong with the lock assembly, such as the lock or the hinges have become loose. In theory, you should be able to fix the lock on your own. Nonetheless, because the lock mechanism is a complicated item that includes electronics, you should call the service center.
- The door glance sensor isn’t working correctly.
- The lock assembly’s controller is broken.
Error codes E5, E6
Meaning: The water in the tub is overheated or not.
Solution: There are several causes for this, including the following:
- The mains voltage is insufficient. If the voltage is too low, you should contact an electrician.
- First, double-check the cabling between the temperature sensor or heating element and the controller. Verify that all of the connections and connectors are firmly attached.
- The absence of a transmitter from the temperature sensor could indicate malfunctioning.
- The heating element’s relay became “stuck.” It is also in need of replacing.
- Because of the heavy coating of scale that has developed on the heating element, for example, it has burned out.