Short answer: Most Frigidaire Professional refrigerators that stop cooling can be repaired. The cost depends on what failed, but a proper diagnosis is always the first step before deciding whether repair or replacement makes the most sense.

If your Frigidaire Professional refrigerator suddenly stopped cooling, you’re probably asking yourself two questions:

• How much is this going to cost?
• Is it even worth repairing?

They’re both fair questions—and the answer depends entirely on what actually failed.

We’ve repaired many Frigidaire Professional refrigerators over the years, and while these units are generally well-built, there is one expensive failure that we see far more often than most homeowners expect.

The good news is that it doesn’t automatically mean your refrigerator needs to be replaced.

In fact, we’ve had many customers preparing to shop for a new refrigerator before calling us, only to discover that repairing the existing unit made far more financial sense.

What You’ll Learn In This Guide

In this article we’ll cover:

• Why Frigidaire Professional refrigerators became so popular.
• The most common expensive failure we see in real service calls.
• How to recognize the warning signs.
• Why simply adding refrigerant doesn’t solve the problem.
• When repairing makes more sense than replacing.
• A real repair we recently completed, including photos.

Why So Many Homeowners Bought These Refrigerators

Frigidaire Professional refrigerators became extremely popular because they offered something many homeowners wanted—a premium built-in appearance without the premium built-in price.

Unlike a traditional refrigerator, these units are commonly installed as two separate appliances: an all-refrigerator beside an all-freezer, connected with a trim kit to create the appearance of one large built-in refrigerator.

For many homeowners, it was the perfect compromise. They could achieve a high-end kitchen similar to Sub-Zero or Viking without spending well into five figures.

As a result, thousands of kitchens throughout Ontario were designed around these refrigerators.

That’s important, because when one of these units stops cooling, replacing it isn’t always as simple as buying another refrigerator.

In many cases, newer replacement models have slightly different dimensions, which can make replacement more complicated than homeowners expect.

If your Frigidaire Professional refrigerator isn’t cooling properly, our technicians specialize in Frigidaire appliance repair throughout Hamilton, the GTA, Niagara, Kitchener-Waterloo, London, and surrounding areas.

Before We Talk About Cost, Let’s Talk About The Real Problem

One thing we’ve learned over years of appliance repair is that homeowners often focus on the wrong question.

Instead of asking “How much does this repair cost?”, it’s usually better to ask:

“What actually failed?”

That’s because two refrigerators with exactly the same symptom can have completely different underlying problems.

For example, a refrigerator that’s running but not cooling could have:

• a failed evaporator fan
• a faulty relay
• a defrost problem
• a control board issue
• or a sealed system refrigerant leak

Those repairs vary dramatically in complexity and cost.

That’s why replacing parts based on internet advice—or having someone simply “top off the refrigerant”—often ends up costing more in the long run.

The Most Common Expensive Failure We See

On many Frigidaire Professional upright refrigerators, one repair appears again and again in our service calls.

It’s a sealed system refrigerant leak.

More specifically, we frequently find corrosion developing around the copper suction line (often referred to as the heat exchanger) located behind the evaporator.

The tubing passes through an insulated foam sleeve. Over time, moisture can accumulate around that copper tubing. After years of normal use, corrosion may eventually create a tiny refrigerant leak.

Once refrigerant begins escaping, cooling performance slowly declines.

The refrigerator still runs.

The compressor still sounds normal.

The lights still work.

But the temperature gradually rises until the appliance can no longer keep food cold.

Technician note: We most commonly see this failure on the refrigerator section rather than the matching freezer, although either appliance can develop a sealed system leak.

Does This Sound Familiar?

Every appliance should be diagnosed properly, but many customers describe almost the same symptoms before we even arrive.

If several of these sound familiar, your refrigerator—or freezer—may have developed a sealed system problem.

• The compressor runs almost constantly.
• The refrigerator or freezer still runs, but cooling performance keeps getting worse.
• The temperature slowly rises over several days.
• Food spoils sooner than usual.
• The appliance never seems to reach the correct temperature.
• A technician mentioned a refrigerant leak or sealed system issue.
• Your appliance is approximately 6–10 years old.

What we see in real service calls: Many homeowners assume that because the matching freezer is still working, the refrigerator can’t have a major problem. In reality, Frigidaire Professional refrigerator/freezer pairs are two completely independent appliances. Each has its own compressor and sealed refrigeration system, so it’s very common for one unit to fail while the other continues working normally. In our experience, this particular leak occurs much more frequently on the refrigerator than on the matching freezer.

Can You Just Add Refrigerant?

This is one of the most common questions we hear.

The short answer is no—not if you want to fix the problem properly.

Refrigerant doesn’t get “used up.”

If your refrigerator is low on refrigerant, it escaped somewhere.

Adding more refrigerant without repairing the leak is similar to putting air into a tire that has a nail in it. It may seem better for a while, but eventually the same problem comes back.

A proper sealed system repair means locating the leak, repairing or replacing the failed section, pressure-testing the system with nitrogen, pulling a deep vacuum, and finally recharging the refrigerator with the exact factory-specified amount of refrigerant.

That’s very different from simply adding refrigerant.

Why These Repairs Cost More

Homeowners are often surprised when they hear the price of a sealed system repair.

Unlike replacing a fan motor or thermostat, this type of repair requires specialized equipment, refrigeration knowledge, brazing, pressure testing, vacuum equipment, and refrigerant handling certification.

In many cases, the technician must also replace additional components such as the filter drier while the system is open.

A proper repair typically includes:

• Confirming the sealed system failure.
• Locating the exact refrigerant leak.
• Replacing or repairing the failed component.
• Replacing the filter drier.
• Pressure-testing the system with dry nitrogen.
• Leak-testing the system to confirm it is completely sealed before charging.
• Pulling a deep vacuum to remove moisture and air.
• Charging the refrigerator with the precise factory refrigerant charge.
• Verifying temperatures and frost pattern before returning the appliance to service.

Skipping any of these steps can shorten the life of the repair. That’s one reason why experience matters when working on sealed refrigeration systems.

Is It Worth Repairing or Replacing?

This is usually the first question customers ask after hearing the words “sealed system repair.”

Our answer is almost always the same:

It depends on the overall condition of the refrigerator—not just the repair itself.

If the cabinet is in good shape, the interior is clean, the doors seal properly, and the sealed system failure is repairable, we often recommend repairing the unit rather than replacing it.

These refrigerators were designed to create a premium built-in appearance, and many homeowners planned their entire kitchen around them.

The refrigerator isn’t valuable simply because it’s a Frigidaire. It’s valuable because your kitchen was designed around it.

Replacing one of these units can involve much more than simply buying another refrigerator. Depending on the replacement model, homeowners may also need to consider trim kits, cabinetry modifications, installation costs, delivery, and disposal of the old appliance.

For that reason, a properly completed sealed system repair is often the better investment.

When We Usually Recommend Repairing

Every situation is different, but repair often makes sense when:

• The refrigerator is otherwise in excellent condition.
• The cabinet and doors have no significant damage.
• The sealed system leak can be repaired properly.
• Replacing the appliance would require modifying surrounding cabinetry.
• You want to keep your matching refrigerator and freezer pair.

When Replacement May Be The Better Choice

Sometimes replacing the appliance is the smarter decision.

We may recommend replacement if:

• The refrigerator has multiple major failures.
• The cabinet has significant structural damage or corrosion.
• Critical replacement parts are no longer available.
• The overall cost of repair no longer makes financial sense.

Every appliance deserves to be evaluated individually before making that decision.

A Real Repair From One Of Our Customers

This isn’t just something we’ve read about or seen once.

Recently, we repaired a Frigidaire Professional refrigerator for a homeowner in Burlington that had completely stopped cooling.

The refrigerator showed the same symptoms described in this guide: poor cooling, a sealed system leak, and concerns about replacing a built-in appliance that the entire kitchen had been designed around.

After diagnosing the problem, we repaired the sealed system, pressure-tested the refrigeration circuit, evacuated the system, and recharged it to the manufacturer’s specifications.

The refrigerator was returned to normal operation, saving the customer from replacing the appliance and potentially modifying surrounding cabinetry.

If you’d like to see the actual repair—including photos from the job—you can read the complete case study here:

Frigidaire Professional Refrigerator Not Cooling – Burlington Repair Case Study

Every refrigerator is different, but we believe showing real repairs is far more valuable than simply talking about them.

The Most Expensive Mistake Homeowners Make

If there’s one piece of advice we’d give to every homeowner, it’s this:

Don’t replace parts—or the refrigerator itself—until you know exactly what’s wrong.

We’ve seen homeowners assume they needed a brand-new refrigerator, only to discover the problem was completely repairable.

We’ve also seen the opposite—people spend money changing parts or repeatedly adding refrigerant without ever identifying the actual cause of the cooling problem.

A proper diagnosis saves money in the long run.

Technician tip: “Not cooling” is a symptom—not a diagnosis. The same symptom can have several completely different causes, which is why proper diagnosis should always come before changing parts or replacing the refrigerator.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to fix a Frigidaire Professional refrigerator?

The cost depends on what’s causing the cooling problem. A failed fan motor, defrost issue, or control board repair costs significantly less than a sealed system repair. A proper diagnosis is the only way to determine the actual repair cost.

Can a sealed system leak be repaired?

Yes. In many cases it can. The leaking component must be repaired or replaced, followed by pressure testing, evacuation, and recharging the system with the correct type and amount of refrigerant.

Why does my refrigerator still run if it’s leaking refrigerant?

The compressor continues trying to cool the refrigerator even when refrigerant has escaped. As the refrigerant charge decreases, the appliance gradually loses its ability to maintain the correct temperature.

Does adding refrigerant fix the problem?

No. Refrigerant doesn’t get used up. If the system is low, there is a leak that needs to be repaired. Simply adding refrigerant is only a temporary solution and usually results in the same problem returning.

How long should a Frigidaire Professional refrigerator last?

Many Frigidaire Professional refrigerators provide well over a decade of reliable service when properly maintained. Like any appliance, longevity depends on usage, maintenance, and the condition of the sealed refrigeration system.

Are newer Frigidaire Professional models affected by the same problem?

Designs change over time, and manufacturers regularly update components. While newer models may differ from earlier generations, any refrigerator can eventually develop sealed system problems as it ages. A professional diagnosis is the best way to determine the cause of a cooling issue.

Final Thoughts

Frigidaire Professional refrigerators remain a popular choice because they offer the appearance of a premium built-in refrigerator at a much more accessible price.

Like any appliance, they can develop problems over time. One of the most common—and most expensive—we see is a sealed system refrigerant leak.

The good news is that a sealed system failure doesn’t automatically mean the refrigerator needs to be replaced. In many cases, a professional repair can restore normal operation and add many more years of reliable service.

If your refrigerator has stopped cooling, don’t assume the worst. A proper diagnosis can often save you thousands of dollars and help you make the right decision based on the actual condition of your appliance.

Need professional Frigidaire refrigerator repair? Contact Pegasus Appliance Repair to schedule a diagnostic. We’ll identify the problem, explain your options, and help you decide whether repairing or replacing your refrigerator makes the most sense.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on our experience repairing Frigidaire Professional refrigerators and is intended for informational purposes only. Pegasus Appliance Repair is an independent appliance repair company and is not affiliated with Frigidaire or Electrolux.

The post Frigidaire Professional Refrigerator Not Cooling? Here’s What We See Most Often appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.

Most people don’t think about their range hood — until it stops working.

Suddenly your kitchen fills with smoke, grease sticks to cabinets, and cooking becomes uncomfortable fast.

If your range hood is not working, the problem is usually fixable. However, the cause isn’t always obvious.

Here’s how to understand what’s really going on — before you start replacing parts or tearing things apart.

First — What Does “Not Working” Actually Mean?

Before trying to fix a range hood, define the symptom. This step alone saves time and prevents unnecessary repairs.

• Fan not turning on at all
• Fan runs but airflow is weak
• Lights not working
• Loud or unusual noise
• Controls not responding

Each symptom points to a different root cause.

The Most Common Reasons a Range Hood Stops Working

1. The Fan or Motor Isn’t Running

This is the most common issue we see.

If the fan doesn’t turn on, the problem is usually electrical — not mechanical.

In most cases, the cause is:

• Failed motor
• Faulty switch
• Control board issue

However, guessing here often leads to replacing the wrong part.

Proper testing is required before replacing anything.

2. Weak Airflow (But Fan Still Works)

If the fan runs but smoke stays in your kitchen, airflow is restricted.

In many cases, this has nothing to do with the motor.

The real causes are usually:

• Grease-clogged filters
• Blocked or restricted ductwork
• Improper installation

As a result, even a good motor won’t perform properly.

3. Range Hood Making Noise

Unusual noise is an early warning sign.

For example:

• Rattling → loose components
• Buzzing → electrical issue
• Grinding → worn motor bearings

Over time, ignoring noise often leads to full motor failure.

4. Lights Not Working

This seems simple, but it’s not always just a bulb.

If new bulbs don’t solve the issue, the cause is usually:

• Faulty socket
• Wiring issue
• Control switch problem

In these cases, electrical testing is required.

5. Buttons or Touch Controls Not Responding

Modern range hoods rely on electronic controls.

When buttons stop responding, the issue is typically:

• Failed touchpad
• Damaged control board
• Loose internal connections

As a result, the hood may appear completely dead even when power is present.

What You Can Check Before Calling for Repair

If your range hood is not working, there are a few safe checks you can do:

• Clean or replace grease filters
• Check your breaker or power supply
• Inspect visible wiring (without disassembly)

If the issue is obvious, you may be able to fix it quickly.

However, if not, this is where most DIY attempts go wrong.

Where DIY Range Hood Repairs Go Wrong

This is something we see almost daily.

• Incorrect parts ordered online
• Unit partially disassembled
• Wiring disturbed or damaged
• Original issue still unresolved

As a result, what started as a simple problem becomes a more expensive repair.

That’s why proper diagnosis always comes first.

When to Call a Technician

If your range hood is still not working after basic checks, it’s time to stop and reassess.

Electrical components, motors, and internal wiring require proper tools and experience.

Professional range hood repair ensures the problem is identified and fixed correctly the first time.

For general kitchen ventilation standards, you can also refer to Health Canada kitchen ventilation guidelines.

A Quick Note About Previously Opened Units

If the hood has already been taken apart, diagnosing it becomes more complicated.

In some cases, we may not proceed with repair if prior work makes the unit unsafe or unreliable.

You can read more in our terms of use.

Bottom Line

If your range hood is not working, the issue is usually fixable — but only if diagnosed correctly.

Most problems start small and can be resolved quickly.

However, guessing or delaying repairs often turns a simple fix into a bigger issue.

The post Range Hood Not Working? Here’s What’s Actually Causing It (Before You Replace It) appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.

Microwaves are one of those appliances people don’t think about — until they stop working.

It runs. It lights up. The timer counts down.

But the food comes out cold.

That’s one of the most common service calls we get.

Important First — Microwaves Are Not DIY-Friendly

Unlike most household appliances, microwaves store high voltage even after being unplugged.

That means opening one up without proper knowledge isn’t just risky — it can be dangerous.

This is one appliance where “just checking inside” is not a good idea.

The Most Common Microwave Problems (Real-World)

1. Microwave Runs But Doesn’t Heat

This is the #1 issue.

In most cases, it’s related to:

• Magnetron failure
• High-voltage diode
• Capacitor issues

These are not beginner-level repairs. Diagnosis requires proper tools and experience.

2. Microwave Won’t Turn On

No lights, no response.

Common causes include:

• Blown internal fuse
• Faulty door switch
• Control board issues

Sometimes it’s simple. Sometimes it’s not — and guessing here often leads to replacing the wrong parts.

3. Turntable Not Spinning

If your food heats unevenly, the turntable motor may have failed.

This is usually a minor repair — but still requires proper access and testing.

4. Sparking or Burning Smell

This one should never be ignored.

Possible causes:

• Damaged waveguide cover
• Food debris or grease buildup
• Internal component failure

Action: Stop using the microwave immediately.

5. Loud Buzzing or Strange Noises

Not all microwaves are quiet — but new or unusual noises usually mean something is failing.

Often related to magnetron or cooling components.

What We See in Real Service Calls

In most homes we service, microwave issues fall into two categories:

• High-voltage component failure (no heat)
• Door switch problems (no start or intermittent operation)

And here’s the part most people don’t expect:

Sometimes repair isn’t the best option.

Depending on the model and age, replacing a microwave can be more cost-effective than repairing it.

The DIY Problem (Very Common)

This is one of the few appliances where DIY attempts regularly make things worse.

We often see:

• Units opened without proper discharge
• Parts replaced blindly
• Safety risks created unintentionally

Microwaves are not built like washers or dryers. The risks are different.

When to Call for Microwave Repair

If your microwave:

• Runs but doesn’t heat
• Won’t turn on
• Sparks or smells
• Works intermittently

— it’s time for proper diagnosis.

Professional microwave repair service ensures the issue is handled safely and correctly.

Bottom Line

Microwaves fail in predictable ways — but they’re not forgiving when handled incorrectly.

If something feels off, trust that signal.

This is one appliance where guessing is not worth it.

The post Microwave Not Heating? Here’s What’s Actually Going Wrong appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.

Your oven usually doesn’t fail overnight.

It starts small — uneven cooking, longer preheat times, food taking longer than usual, sometimes even strange smells. Then one day… it just doesn’t heat at all.

We see this exact pattern every week in real service calls across Southern Ontario.

The 5 Most Common Oven Problems (Real-World)

1. Oven Not Heating at All

This is the most common service call.

In electric ovens, it’s usually a failed bake or broil element. Sometimes it’s obvious (burn marks, no glow), sometimes the element looks fine but isn’t working.

Less commonly, it can be a control board, relay, or wiring issue.

Field reality: Most homeowners guess wrong here and replace parts that were never the problem.

2. Oven Failing to Preheat (Won’t Reach Set Temperature)

The oven turns on, but it never reaches the set temperature — or takes an unusually long time trying.

Sometimes it starts preheating normally, then stalls partway through and never gets there.

Common causes:

• Weak or partially failing heating element
• Temperature sensor drifting out of range
• Cooling fan or airflow issues affecting operation
• Control board misreading temperature

We recently handled a case where the oven would start preheating, stall around 125°F, and shut down before reaching the set temperature. The unit was failing to complete the preheat cycle. The issue was related to a wall oven cooling fan failure, which disrupted normal operation.

Technician note: This is one of the most misdiagnosed issues because multiple components can cause the same symptom.

3. Oven Heats — But Not Properly

Food takes longer, cooks unevenly, or burns on one side.

This usually points to:

• Weak heating element
• Temperature sensor issues
• Calibration drift
• Faulty circuit board or temperature control unit

Sometimes the oven reaches temperature but cannot maintain it consistently.

This is one of those problems people ignore — until it starts ruining meals.

4. Oven Door Doesn’t Close Properly

If the door doesn’t seal, heat escapes.

This affects cooking performance and can overheat surrounding cabinets over time.

Common causes:

• Worn hinges
• Broken springs
• Damaged gasket

Important: Running an oven like this is not just inefficient — it can become a safety issue.

5. Self-Clean Cycle Not Working

This one confuses a lot of people.

Sometimes it’s not a failure — just incorrect settings or expectations.

But in many cases, failed door locks, sensors, or control boards prevent the cycle from running.

What we often see: Self-clean used on heavily soiled ovens → overheating → component failure.

The “Quick Fix” Trap

Ovens look simple. Two elements, a knob, maybe a control board.

So people try to fix them based on a video.

Here’s what we actually walk into:

• Wrong parts installed
• Loose or damaged connections
• Units partially disassembled
• Problems worse than the original issue

Electric ovens carry high voltage. Mistakes here are not like fixing a loose handle — they can be dangerous.

What You Can Safely Check

If you want to take a quick look before calling:

• Check if the heating element is visibly damaged
• Confirm the breaker hasn’t tripped
• Test different modes (bake vs broil)

Beyond that, it becomes diagnostic work — not guesswork.

When to Call for Oven Repair

If your oven:

• Doesn’t heat at all
• Fails to preheat or won’t reach temperature
• Heats unevenly
• Trips breakers
• Has door or control issues

— it’s time for proper diagnosis.

Professional oven repair service ensures the issue is identified correctly and fixed without unnecessary part replacements.

A Quick Industry Reality (Most People Don’t Know This)

To cut costs, many manufacturers rely on large service networks that operate on strict scripts and hourly technicians.

They follow procedures — but often lack real-world diagnostic experience.

That’s why two technicians can look at the same oven and come to completely different conclusions.

Bottom Line

An oven rarely “just stops working.”

It gives warning signs first — longer preheat, uneven cooking, inconsistent temperatures.

If you catch those early, the repair is usually straightforward.

Ignore them — or guess your way through it — and it often turns into a much bigger problem.

The post Oven Not Heating? Here’s What’s Actually Going Wrong appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.

If your electric stove is not heating properly, you’re not alone. Most stove problems don’t start with a full breakdown. In real service calls across Southern Ontario, we rarely see completely dead stoves — instead, it’s partial failures: one burner not working, uneven cooking, or heat that won’t adjust properly.

Because the appliance still “kind of works,” many homeowners ignore the issue — until it starts ruining meals or stops working altogether.

Below are the most common electric stove problems we see in the field, what actually causes them, and when it’s worth repairing.

Why Your Electric Stove Is Not Heating Properly

If your electric stove is not heating properly, this section will help you narrow down the cause based on real-world symptoms we see every week.

1. Burner Not Heating Properly on an Electric Stove

This is one of the most common complaints: the burner turns on, but doesn’t heat fully — or only heats in certain spots.

What most people think: The element is bad.
What we actually find: It’s often the infinite switch (the control behind the knob), not the element itself.

Of course, elements do fail — especially on older coil stoves — but on smooth-top and newer ranges, control issues are just as common.

If the burner heats unevenly or cuts in and out, the issue is almost always electrical, not mechanical.

2. Heat Won’t Adjust (Stuck on High or Low)

If your stove stays too hot or won’t reach proper temperature, the problem is usually control-related.

We see this a lot on everyday service calls. The burner works — but it ignores the setting.

Typical cause: Faulty infinite switch or control board.

This isn’t something that fixes itself. In fact, it usually gets worse over time — especially if the stove starts overheating.

3. Oven Cooking Unevenly

This one frustrates people the most. Food cooks unevenly, burns on one side, or takes much longer than expected.

Common causes:

• Weak bake or broil element
• Faulty temperature sensor
• Control board misreading temperature

What’s important here: the oven may still “work,” but it’s no longer accurate.

We often see ovens running 20–50°F off the actual temperature — which is enough to ruin baking completely.

4. Cooktop Works, But Oven Doesn’t

This is a classic scenario: burners are fine, but the oven won’t heat at all.

In most cases, the issue is isolated to:

• Bake element failure
• Thermal fuse
• Control board

At this stage, if your electric stove is not heating properly, the issue is usually isolated and diagnosable — not a full appliance failure.

This is usually a straightforward repair — and in most cases, worth fixing.

5. Error Codes or Control Panel Issues

Modern stoves rely heavily on electronic controls. When something goes wrong, you might see error codes or unresponsive buttons.

Common reality: it’s not always the main board.

We often find issues with wiring, sensors, or secondary components — not just the control panel itself.

This is where proper diagnosis matters. Guessing and swapping boards can get expensive quickly.

6. Cracked Glass Cooktop

Glass cooktops can crack from impact or heat stress. Many people assume the entire stove needs replacement.

In reality, if internal components are still intact, the glass surface can often be replaced — restoring the appliance without replacing the full unit.

We’ve completed many of these repairs successfully. You can see an example here:

Cracked Glass Cooktop Replacement – Saved from Full Replacement

Is It Worth Repairing a Stove?

In most cases — yes.

Electric stoves are relatively simple compared to other appliances. Many problems come down to individual components, not full system failure.

We usually recommend repair when:

• The issue is isolated (element, switch, sensor)
• The unit is under 10–15 years old
• Parts are still available

If your electric stove is not heating properly, addressing the issue early can prevent more expensive repairs later.

If multiple components fail or parts are discontinued, replacement may make more sense. We’ll always give you a straight answer.

Need Help Diagnosing Your Stove?

If your stove isn’t heating properly or acting inconsistently, the best next step is a proper diagnosis.

At Pegasus Appliance Repair, we don’t guess or swap parts blindly. We identify the exact cause first — so you don’t waste money on unnecessary repairs.

? Learn more about our stove repair service
? See real repair cases
? View all brands we service

The post Why Your Electric Stove Isn’t Heating Properly appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.

At Pegasus Appliance Repair, we’ve been restoring homes’ rhythm one broken washer at a time since 2020. As a family-owned business serving Hamilton, Niagara, Kitchener, London, and the Southwest GTA, we help homeowners, landlords, and property managers get their laundry back on track — fast and honestly.

We don’t just repair appliances — we help you avoid the panic. That’s why we turned our most-asked questions into this practical guide. These are the real issues we fix every day, plus simple fixes you can try safely and clear signs it’s time to call the pros.

1. Your Washer Starts… Then Stops Mid-Cycle

What’s happening? The machine pauses for 5–10 minutes or shuts off completely during wash, rinse, or spin.

Common causes: Overloaded drum, faulty lid switch/sensor, or mineral buildup from hard water clogging the inlet valve.

Quick DIY check: Unplug, redistribute the load evenly, and run a small test load. Still stopping? It’s time for a professional repair.

2. Washing Machine Won’t Start at All

The scenario: You load it, add detergent, close the lid… nothing. No lights, no hum.

Why it happens: Blown thermal fuse, tripped breaker, door latch failure, or control board issues.

First step: Check your breaker and test the outlet. If power is good, it’s time for expert help.

3. Spin Cycle Isn’t Spinning (Clothes Come Out Soaking Wet)

Frustrating, right? The wash finishes, but your jeans are dripping.

Causes: Worn drive belt, unbalanced load, or failed drain pump.

DIY fix: Redistribute clothes evenly and try again. Persistent? The pump or belt likely needs replacing.

4. Grinding, Thumping, or Screeching Noises

Sound familiar? It starts quiet, then sounds like a rock tumbler during spin.

Root causes: Worn drum bearings or foreign objects jammed in the pump. Grinding is serious — don’t ignore it.

Our advice: One recent call was a simple sock in the drain pump. Caught early, it’s an easy fix.

5. Washer Isn’t Draining Properly

You open the door… and there’s a lake inside.

Usual suspects: Clogged drain hose, kinked line, or failed drain pump.

Home fix: Unplug, pull out the machine, and clear the hose/filter. Still backed up? Call us.

6. Error Codes or Strange Display Messages

Modern machines love flashing “E1,” “F2,” or “Sud.”

What it really means: Sensor failures or hard-water buildup fooling the electronics.

Pro move: Note the exact code. Our techs know every brand’s codes cold — LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, GE.

7. Drum Won’t Fill with Enough Water

Clothes barely get wet. You hear the valve open, but the tub stays half-empty.

Cause: Clogged inlet screens or stuck inlet valve from scale.

Prevention hack: Clean the inlet screens every 6 months (easy 10-minute job).

8. Leaking from Underneath or Around the Door

Puddles on the floor = ruined subfloor.

Sources: Torn door boot seal, loose hoses, or wrong detergent.

Local note: Cold garage installs make seals crack faster.

9. Foul Smells (That “Mildew” or “Burning” Odor)

Your clean clothes smell… dirty.

Why? Mold from standing water or detergent residue — especially in front-loaders.

Monthly maintenance: Run an empty hot cycle with 2 cups white vinegar or a washer cleaner tablet.

10. Excessive Vibration or “Walking” Across the Floor

The whole machine dances during spin.

Fixes: Uneven legs, weak suspension rods, or improper installation on uneven floors.

Our guarantee: We level it properly the first time — no more midnight earthquakes.

Bonus: Hard Water Is Quietly Destroying Washers

Hard water leaves scale inside the machine, makes detergent less effective, and shortens appliance life.

Simple prevention:

• Use HE detergent only
• Run monthly cleaning cycles
• Consider a whole-home water softener

When to Skip the YouTube Videos and Call Pegasus

Minor clogs or unbalanced loads? You’ve got this. But if the problem keeps coming back, involves strange noises, error codes, or electrical issues — stop guessing.

We’re the faster, more honest alternative to big-box service. Same-day repairs in most cases. No corporate scripts. No hidden fees. Just real techs who treat your home like our own.

Ready to get your laundry day back?
Call or text us today or book online.

The post 10 Common Washing Machine Problems appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.

Most dishwashers don’t suddenly stop working. They give warnings first — subtle changes in performance, strange noises, or small leaks that are easy to ignore.

The issue is, those early signs are often misunderstood. What looks like a simple problem can point to something much bigger happening inside the machine.

Below are the most common dishwasher problems we see in real service calls — and what they usually mean.

1. Dishwasher Not Cleaning Properly

If your dishes are coming out dirty or cloudy, it’s rarely just a detergent issue. In most cases, it comes down to circulation — weak spray pressure, worn pump, or partially blocked spray arms.

Running a cleaner might help temporarily, but if performance dropped suddenly, there’s usually a mechanical reason behind it.

2. Dishwasher Won’t Start

This often gets blamed on power, but many times the issue is the door latch or control system. If the unit doesn’t detect a properly closed door, it simply won’t run.

Intermittent starting problems can also point to wiring faults or failing control boards.

3. Dishwasher Filling Too Little — or Too Much

Water level issues are typically tied to the inlet valve or float system. Too little water leads to poor cleaning, while too much can eventually cause overflow or leaks.

These are problems worth catching early — they tend to get worse, not better.

4. Dishwasher Leaking Water

Leaks are one of the most underestimated dishwasher problems. A small drip from a worn seal or loose connection can slowly damage cabinets, flooring, and even ceilings below.

We regularly see situations where the visible issue was “fixed,” but the source of the leak wasn’t — and the damage shows up weeks later.

5. Dishwasher Not Draining

If water is left sitting at the bottom, the issue is usually somewhere in the drain system — clogged filters, blocked hoses, or a failing pump.

Left unchecked, this can lead to standing water, odors, and eventually overflow.

6. Dishes Not Drying

This usually points to a heating problem. Modern dishwashers rely on proper heating cycles for drying, and when the element or control system fails, dishes stay wet.

It’s a common issue, especially in newer units with more electronics involved.

7. Cracks or Internal Damage

Structural damage inside the dishwasher is less common but more serious. Cracks can expose internal components to water, increasing the risk of electrical issues and further failure.

At that stage, it’s often worth comparing repair versus replacement.

What Most Homeowners Miss

The biggest mistake we see is focusing only on the symptom — not the cause.

A dishwasher might “work again” after a quick fix, but if the underlying issue isn’t addressed, the problem usually comes back.

If you want to see how these issues look in real situations, you can check some of our recent appliance repair cases, where we break down actual diagnostics and fixes.

When to Call for Dishwasher Repair

If your dishwasher is showing any of the issues above — especially leaks, drainage problems, or sudden performance drops — it’s best to have it checked before the damage spreads.

In many cases, catching the problem early can prevent much more expensive repairs later on.

If you need help, you can learn more about our dishwasher repair service or explore the brands we work with to see if your unit is covered.

The post 7 Common Dishwasher Problems appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.

A broken dryer doesn’t just slow down laundry day — it stops your entire household rhythm. In real service calls across Hamilton, the GTA, Niagara, Kitchener, Brantford, London and surrounding areas, we see the same handful of dryer problems over and over again.

Most of these issues don’t start with a full breakdown. The dryer still runs — but something isn’t off. Here’s what these problems usually mean and when it’s time to fix them properly.

Dryer Won’t Turn On

You press start and nothing happens.

What most people think: the dryer is dead.
What we actually find: thermal fuse, door switch, or power issue.

A tripped breaker is common, but if power is confirmed, the thermal fuse is one of the first things we check — especially if the dryer overheated recently.

Dryer Runs But Doesn’t Heat

This is one of the most common calls we get.

The drum spins, but clothes stay wet.

Typical causes:

• Blown thermal fuse
• Failed heating element
• Clogged airflow or vent restriction

In real-world cases, airflow issues are extremely common. A blocked vent can cause overheating, which then blows the thermal fuse.

Dryer Takes Too Long to Dry

If cycles are getting longer and clothes still come out damp, the issue is usually airflow — not the heating element.

What we typically find:

• Lint buildup inside the dryer
• Restricted venting
• Weak heating performance

This is also a safety issue. Excess lint buildup is one of the leading causes of dryer fires.

Dryer Is Noisy

Squeaking, grinding, or thumping means internal components are wearing out.

Common failures include:

• Drum rollers
• Idler pulley
• Blower wheel

This won’t fix itself — and ignoring it can lead to bigger damage.

Drum Not Spinning

If the dryer turns on but the drum doesn’t move, the issue is usually mechanical.

Most common cause: broken drive belt.

We also check the motor and idler pulley at the same time to make sure the problem doesn’t come back.

Dryer Shuts Off Mid-Cycle

If your dryer stops before the cycle is complete, overheating is often the cause.

This can be due to:

• Airflow restriction
• Faulty thermostat
• Failing motor

This is another issue that’s often linked to poor ventilation and internal lint buildup.

Is It Worth Repairing a Dryer?

In most cases — yes.

Dryers are relatively simple machines, and many issues come down to individual components rather than full system failure.

We usually recommend repair when:

• The issue is isolated (belt, fuse, element)
• The unit is under 10–12 years old
• No major motor or structural damage is present

Need Help With Your Dryer?

If your dryer isn’t heating, making noise, or taking too long to dry, the best step is a proper diagnosis.

At Pegasus Appliance Repair, we don’t guess or swap parts blindly. We identify the exact issue first — and we clean dangerous internal lint on every repair.

? Learn more about our dryer repair service
? See real repair cases
? View all brands we service

The post Common Dryer Problems (What They Actually Mean) appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.

Most refrigerator issues don’t start with a complete breakdown. In real service calls across Southern Ontario, we usually see partial failures — the fridge is running, but something isn’t right.

Food spoils faster, water shows up on the floor, or the freezer turns into a block of ice. These problems often get ignored until the appliance stops working completely.

Here are the most common fridge and freezer problems we see — and what’s actually behind them.

1. Fridge Running Constantly

A refrigerator that never seems to shut off is one of the most common complaints.

What most people think: “It’s just working harder.”
What we actually find: airflow or heat-exchange issues.

Dirty condenser coils can cause this, but in many real cases, we see:

• Weak condenser fan
• Failing evaporator fan
• Sealed system inefficiency (early-stage)

If your fridge runs constantly and still struggles to maintain temperature, it’s not just a cleaning issue — it needs proper diagnosis.

2. Water Leaking Inside or Onto the Floor

Water under the fridge or pooling inside is usually not a “major failure” — but it shouldn’t be ignored.

Most common cause: blocked defrost drain.

Food debris, ice buildup, or residue can clog the drain line. Instead of draining properly, water backs up and leaks out.

In some cases, we also find cracked drain pans or frozen internal lines.

This is usually a straightforward fix — but if left too long, it can lead to mold and internal damage.

3. Ice Buildup in the Freezer

A freezer full of frost or ice is almost always an airflow or defrost issue — not just “humidity.”

What we typically find:

• Defrost heater failure
• Faulty defrost thermostat
• Control board not initiating defrost cycle

Door seals can contribute — but in real service calls, internal defrost system failures are far more common.

If ice keeps coming back after manual defrosting, the root issue hasn’t been fixed.

4. Fridge Not Cold, Freezer Still Works

This is one of the most confusing scenarios for homeowners.

Typical pattern: freezer is fine, fridge section is warm.

This usually points to airflow problems:

• Evaporator fan not circulating air
• Air damper stuck closed
• Blocked vents due to ice buildup

The cooling system is working — but the cold air isn’t reaching the fridge section.

5. Water Dispenser Not Working

If your fridge has a water dispenser that suddenly stops working, there are a few likely causes.

We commonly see:

• Frozen water line inside the freezer door
• Faulty water inlet valve
• Low water pressure or filter restriction

This isn’t always a major repair — but proper testing is needed to avoid replacing the wrong part.

6. Fridge Getting Warm

If your fridge is no longer cooling properly, this is no longer a minor issue.

Possible causes range from:

• Dirty coils or fan issues
• Sensor or control failure
• Sealed system problems (compressor, refrigerant, restriction)

This is where proper diagnosis matters most. Guessing here can lead to expensive and unnecessary repairs.

Is It Worth Repairing a Refrigerator?

In many cases — yes.

We usually recommend repair when:

• The issue is isolated (fan, heater, sensor, valve)
• The unit is under 10–12 years old
• Cooling system is still intact

If the problem is within the sealed system or the unit is older, replacement may be the better option. We’ll always give you a straight answer based on what we find.

Need Help With Your Fridge?

If your refrigerator is leaking, running constantly, or not cooling properly, the best step is a proper diagnosis.

At Pegasus Appliance Repair, we don’t guess or swap parts blindly. We identify the exact issue first — so you don’t waste money on unnecessary repairs.

? Learn more about our fridge repair service
? See real repair cases
? View all brands we service

The post Common Fridge & Freezer Issues appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.

You don’t realize how much you rely on your appliances until something starts going wrong. In most service calls we handle across Southern Ontario, the appliance didn’t suddenly fail — it showed warning signs first.

The problem is, these early signs are easy to ignore. The appliance still works “well enough”… until it doesn’t.

Here are the most common signs you need appliance repair — based on what we actually see every week — and what they usually mean.

1. Your Appliance Still Works — But Not Like It Used To

This is the most overlooked warning sign.

What most people think: “It’s still working, I’ll deal with it later.”
What we actually see: early-stage component failure.

• Dryer — takes longer to dry or leaves clothes damp
• Dishwasher — dishes come out dirty or wet
• Oven — uneven cooking or temperature inconsistency
• Stove — burners heat inconsistently or cut out
• Refrigerator — not cold enough or fluctuating temperature
• Washer — doesn’t drain, spin, or complete cycles properly

If performance has changed, something is already failing. This is usually the cheapest and easiest stage to fix it.

2. You Notice Strange Smells

Appliances should not produce strong or unusual odors. When they do, it’s often a warning sign — not just a nuisance.

• Burning or electrical smell — possible wiring or component overheating (stop using immediately)
• Musty smell — buildup inside washers or dishwashers (often deeper than what cleaning can fix)
• Persistent rotten smell — airflow or drainage issues inside the fridge

We’ve seen many cases where ignoring a smell led to bigger damage — especially with dryers and electrical components.

3. New or Unusual Noises

Every appliance has a normal sound profile. When that changes, something inside is wearing out or failing.

Grinding, squealing, banging, or loud humming usually means:

• Worn bearings or rollers
• Loose or damaged internal components
• Motor strain or failure starting

In real service calls, noise is often the first sign before a major breakdown. Catching it early can prevent much bigger repairs.

4. Your Energy Bills Are Going Up

This is one of the most overlooked signs.

When an appliance struggles, it runs longer and uses more power to do the same job.

Common examples:

• Fridge running constantly due to airflow or cooling issues
• Dryer taking multiple cycles due to restricted airflow
• Oven taking longer to reach temperature due to failing elements

If nothing else has changed in your home, your appliances are often the reason.

5. The Appliance Stops Turning On

This feels like the worst-case scenario — but it’s not always the end.

In many cases, we find:

• Blown thermal fuse
• Faulty switch or control
• Wiring issue or safety lock

These are often repairable and much cheaper than replacing the appliance entirely.

When Should You Call for Appliance Repair?

If you notice any of the signs above — especially burning smells, repeated issues, leaks, or inconsistent performance — it’s best to diagnose the problem early.

At Pegasus Appliance Repair, we don’t guess or replace parts blindly. We identify the exact cause first and help you decide whether repair actually makes sense.

? Request a service call
? See real repair cases
? View all brands we service

The post 5 Signs You Need Appliance Repair (Before It Turns Into a Bigger Problem) appeared first on Pegasus Appliance Repair.